Boo Couture: Historical Sewing: starting with a good foundation

Well, I finally did it. After years and years of lurking in the shadows I finally joined the San Diego Costume Guild. There really wasn't much to it. Its not like there is an entrance exam or even any dues to pay. You just get involved! So that's what I'm doing my best to do!

I joined the Facebook page and very soon a sewing workshop was advertised, so I signed right up. Shelley Peters, the proprietress of Kansas Merchantile, runs sewing workshops for historical costuming. There you can make entire historical corset in 2 days, or learn historical clothing construction. I really wasn't sure what I would do, but I knew I needed to be there.

Before attending the workshop I looked through all the photos on the costume guild page and Val, who was hosting the workshop invited me to a couple of her costuming pages. I decided that I was most interested in two events the Dia de Los Muertos celebration in Old Town and the Picnic in Tissot's Garden even (hosted by Val). So that meant an 19th century bustle gown.

You really can't wear these dresses properly without the right under garments, so I needed to get my foundations built. I needed a good corset.

Your Personalized Victorian Corset

I used the free drafting instructions from Your Wardrobe Unlock'd to make a pattern and on the first day of the workshop Shelley let me try on some of her corsets and she helped me get as good fit as possible (for my body) with the muslin I made from the pattern.

I took my muslin full of marks and notes on fit and transferred all the information to my paper pattern for future corsets. Then I got all the pieces cut out and started assembling my actual corset! Shelley recommends Welt or Folded Seam Corset Construction. I love it! Everything is smooth and strong because its done with such precision at each step.

Before the next sewing workshop, I completed a chemise. I used the free chemise pattern from the Tudor Links website. I was extremely easy to draft the pattern and put the whole thing together. I used basic white cotton and trimmed it with lace I was given in a giant bag of trim from my lovely neighbor, Sara. The band is decorated with my feeble attempt at hand embroidery. I'm pretty sure that is not really how the band is supposed to be attached, but it'll work for a first attempt.

Over Fourth of July weekend, Shelley held another workshop, which Val so gracious offered to host in her home again and I was able to stay all day and get the majority of my corset completed. All that was left was the final hand-stitching on the top and bottom binding.